Jewelry shopping can be intimidating. That’s why we started Ask Holden, our blog where we answer your FAQs, break down scary industry lingo, and guide you in finding the perfect piece of jewelry.
While shopping for gold jewelry, you may have heard the terms “plated” or “vermeil." Our gold jewelry is made exclusively from solid gold, but it’s important to understand the differences between these types of jewelry so you can make the best choice for you.
If you’re looking for the “too long, didn’t read” pros and cons, the pros of vermeil, plated, and filled is that they’re less expensive. The downside? They typically don’t last long and tend to be less eco-conscious. While all contain real gold, the amount of gold varies drastically—read on to learn more!
What’s the difference between gold plated, vermeil, filled, and solid gold?
Plated, vermeil, and filled jewelry are affordable, but less durable. Solid gold costs more—but lasts forever. Here's how they compare.
Gold Plated
Of all the gold options, gold plated is the least expensive and the lowest quality. To make plated gold, an inexpensive base metal such as brass is dipped in melted gold–typically less than 1% of the total ring composition.
A gold plated ring may look the same as solid gold at first, but over time, it will wear and tarnish. Since the base metal is inexpensive, this choice can not only lose its appearance with time, but can also irritate your skin.
Gold Vermeil
Gold vermeil (pronounced ver-may) is similar in composition to gold plated in that a base metal is coated in a thin layer of gold, but the metal underneath is always sterling silver. This means that your ring is made entirely from precious metals and is less likely to irritate your finger as it wears. Over time, gold vermeil will still wear to expose the sterling silver underneath.
In order to be certified, gold plated jewelry must be 0.5 microns thick. If you haven’t thought about microns since 11th grade chemistry (fair!), a micron is about .00004 inches thick, which means both gold plated and vermeil jewelry is around 1% gold.
Gold Filled
For this type of jewelry, a thicker layer of gold sits atop the base metal. Gold fill jewelry is created through a process called pressure bonding and contains, by law, at least 5% solid gold (the gold content for gold fill is measured in weight instead of thickness). It’s confusing, considering the fact that gold filled isn’t in fact filled with gold (it’s really the opposite!).
Gold filled rings are typically more expensive and durable than its plated counterparts, but it’s still less expensive than solid gold. Gold filling is a technique that's relatively out of fashion, as it’s time consuming and not significantly higher quality than gold plating. Over time, a gold filled piece of jewelry may still wear down and expose the base metal underneath.
Solid Gold
Solid gold has no plating or base metal of any kind. This is the most reliable type of gold jewelry, as there is no risk of exposing another metal with wear and tear—you can trust that your jewelry will wear beautifully over time. Solid gold rings are also the most premium and durable option by far and a much more sustainable choice than gold filled, gold plated, or gold vermeil jewelry.
It’s important to note that solid gold jewelry isn't made of pure gold. Gold is a soft material, so jewelry that is 24k gold is considered by many to be too soft to withstand daily wear and tear.
The most common choice for a wedding ring is 14k solid gold. 14k gold is made up of 14 parts gold and 10 parts alloy metals (such as copper, silver, and zinc), which help increase the durability of the piece.
When it comes to color, the percentage of copper in rose gold alloy is higher than it is in yellow gold alloy in order to give the ring its rosy color. A higher karat rose gold ring will be less pink than a lower karat ring since it contains less copper!
Takeaways
Gold plating is used to make gold financially accessible to more people, and we fully support this goal. That being said, it’s important to understand exactly what these techniques entail so you know what you’ll be purchasing and how long it will last.
Because wedding and engagement rings are pieces you’ll wear every day, we think it’s worth investing something that will last forever. If you’re buying a piece you don’t anticipate wearing every day (think: a trendy bauble or statement necklace), these less expensive options could work since the piece will get less wear.
Here at Holden, our solid gold rings, gold filled rings, and platinum rings are designed to last a lifetime. If your ring size changes and you need your ring adjusted, we’re able to resize most of our rings free of charge (plus free shipping, of course!).
Questions? Give us a shout at help@hiholden.com or a ring (pun intended) at 646.722.6817.
FAQS
1. Is gold plated jewelry real gold?
Yes, jewelry like gold plated rings contains a thin layer of real gold on top of a base metal like brass. However, the gold content is usually less than 1%, and it can wear off over time.
2. What is the difference between gold plated and gold vermeil?
Both are types of gold-coated jewelry, but gold vermeil uses sterling silver as the base metal, while gold plated uses less expensive metals like brass. Vermeil is also required to have a thicker gold layer (at least 0.5 microns).
3. How long does gold plated jewelry last?
Gold plated jewelry can last anywhere from a few months to a year, depending on wear and care. It’s more prone to tarnishing and fading compared to other types.
4. Is gold vermeil better than gold plated?
Yes, gold vermeil is considered higher quality because it uses sterling silver instead of base metals and typically has a thicker layer of gold. It's also more hypoallergenic.
5. Can gold filled rings tarnish?
Gold filled rings are much more resistant to tarnishing than plated or vermeil, but it can still wear over time, especially with frequent exposure to water or chemicals.
6. Is solid gold worth it?
Absolutely. Solid gold is the most durable and long-lasting option for everyday wear like wedding or engagement rings. It’s also more sustainable and holds its value better over time.
7. Why aren't solid gold rings made of 24k gold?
24k gold is too soft for daily wear. Most solid gold rings are made from 14k or 18k gold, which mixes gold with alloy metals to make it stronger and more durable.
8. What type of gold is best for sensitive skin?
Gold vermeil and solid gold are the best choices for sensitive skin. They use hypoallergenic metals like sterling silver or pure gold alloys, unlike plated jewelry, which can cause irritation.
About Holden
At Holden, we see your love. We celebrate it with custom wedding and engagement rings that honor your truth. From iconic Center Stone Solitaires to heartfelt Multi-Stone rings and graceful Classic bands, our designs are crafted to last and made to mean something.